On a February night in 2014, in the middle of a busy dinner at the acclaimed Copenhagen restaurant Noma, the founding chef, René Redzepi, ordered the entire kitchen staff to follow him outside into the cold.
He was shoving a sous-chef in front of him, a young man who had put on techno music, a genre that Redzepi disliked, in the production kitchen. Far from the dining room, it was where unpaid interns worked 16-hour days, performing tasks like picking herbs and cleaning pine cones to adorn Redzepi’s celebrated New Nordic dishes.